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Face Ups: Common Problems and Solutions. (Tutorial)

Sep 27, 2008

    1. Here are some notes from my face up journal that been written down in a composition book too improve my face ups. They helped me a lot.


      Feel free to post your problems and artists feel free to answer them!


      Applying Eyebrows and Lower Lashes with brushes and acrylics.

      Make sure you are in a well lit room with no distractions. If you cant see well, get a artist lamp that has a built in magnifier.

      Problems: Symmetry of Eyebrows and lower lashes are WAY off! As well the hairs in the eyebrows and lower lashes . Some are thick some are thin. Some are too slanted and some are too apart. Paint strokes are not mastered.

      Solutions: As for the symmetry of the eyebrows. Try a eyebrow template, or lightly sketch a guide line of the shape of the eyebrows with water color pencils. For Lower Lashes, lightly sketch lashes as a guide with Watercolor pencils too.

      If your hair lines are too thick or too long:
      When you dip your brush in paint, gently take some paint off, doing small strokes on a separate piece of scratch paper or the head cap, till you get the amount of paint that you are comfortable with, and start seeing thinner lines. Then start applying the lines the way you want Slowly and Carefully with the right amount of pressure. (Make sure you don't run out of paint)

      Concentrate on the very end of the brush, where it meets the resin and is applying the paint. This will keep your hands form shaking so much. (Mind over matter) Do not look at your hands, the other end of the brush or the rest of the face up. Concentrate on what you're doing.

      Mastering your brush strokes is very important before you start on a doll. If you have VERY shaky hands, practice your brush strokes on a separate piece of paper or head cap till you get the feel of how much pressure and paint you need to get the perfect lines. Tame your hands!

      As for symmetry of the actual eyebrow and eyelash hairs. Eyebrow and Eyelash hairs aren't completely symmetrical, so it doesn't mean that each hair has to line up with the other . But if the hairs are very noticeably uneven. Draw or print out a template of your dolls face, practice the eyebrow and eyelash hairs on the side you have most trouble with. (Left or Right )

      NOTE: Everyone is different. Not all brushes work for everyone. Some like short firm hard bristles while others prefer long soft bristles. If you see no improvement in the brush you're using. Try another one!


      Applying Eyebrows and Lower Lashes with water color pencils.

      If you just can't master acrylics and brushes. Try Water Color Pencils! If used right you can get results almost like acrylics.


      Problems: Lines from watercolor pencils look grainy. They wont go on dark Enough either!

      Solutions: If your lines look grainy and unnatural, make sure your pencil tip is well sharpened. Sometimes a sharpener wont do it, so on a separate piece of paper start gently shading the paper till the point is very well.. pointed and you get small fine lines. If it still looks unnatural try getting a VERY small make up sponge with a handle and from the base of the hair add a small amount of pressure and lightly smudging the hair from the base up. This will blend the hairs and soften them, giving them a whispy and feathery look.

      Making the lines darker is easy to fix. Drop a VERY VERY VERY VERY small amount of water onto the pencil tip and gently wipe the excess water away.

      Test the pencil on a piece of paper before you put it on your doll. If its too wet it will be difficult to wipe or erase off.


      NOTE:
      The best thing about water color pencils is you can use an eraser to erase mistakes! For more control and precision try getting a retractable white eraser, and cutting the tip so it'll be slightly pointed.


      Coating with Mr. Super Clear

      Very important to seal your doll! But it can be dangerous if you aren't cautious. Search the forums for more information on Mr.Super Clear.


      Problems: MSC is peeling and flaking off. White residue.

      Solutions: Make sure the head is CLEAN and DRY and the can is shaken really well. When coating a resin head, the air cannot be humid and there's no wind. Make sure you're at least about a foot to 18 inches away. Test to see how it sprays, hold down the nozzle and go past the doll's face EVENLY. (nose, lips, eyes, ears). Then do the back of the head. Make sure the head has no spots with out MSC. Not to quickly and not too slowly. The faster you do it the less MSC you get on the resin and the slower the more MSC. Let the head sit in a very dry dust free area for about 5 minutes before coating it or painting it. Do not coat it again if its half way drying. DON'T TOUCH IT. PATIENCE.


      NOTE:
      MSC is very toxic. Don't inhale it! Wear a mask designed for sprays and dust. Make sure you are in a very ventilated area. If you live in a humid area. Try using a empty open room, don't open the windows an hour before you start. It will get humid and defeat the whole purpose. Put a fan facing the window, on high. Then coat the doll.


      Applying pastels

      Very messy. You need a lot of q-tips, paper towels, and Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponges before you start.


      Problems: Pastels are EVERYWHERE. Not an even color. Doll's face is DIRTY.

      Solutions: To achieve an even color. Grind the amount of pastel you need on a piece of sand paper, till its a very fine powder. This will apply it evenly. To keep the pastel where you want it, use a firm/stiff Flat or Filbert brush or a SMALL clean makeup sponge. Gently dab the TIP of the brush into the pastel. Don't cover the whole bristles. Give the brush or sponge a slight blow to blow off excess pastel. Carefully apply the pastels. After each layer blend the pastels together with a soft flat brush.

      NOTE:
      To wipe away excess pastel, first blow on it. Small smudge? Use a pointed q-tip. HUGE smudge? Then use a dry piece of Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponge. If the smudge is resistant to wipe off, gentle wet the q-tip and carefully wiping it away. DON'T USE A WET MAGIC ERASER. It will remove the previous coating.




      You can't master painting faces over night. Don't get disappointed, frustrated and give up. PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. Soon as you know it you'll be a amazing face up artist. Remember to TAKE YOUR TIME.
       
      • x 1
    2. Materials

      Basics:

      Paper Towels
      Q-tips
      Mr. Clean Magic Sponge
      Scratch paper
      Sand paper
      Sharpener
      Retractable eraser

      Acrylic paints: Make sure you paint with acrylics only.

      Liquitex Acrylics

      Gloss:

      Liquitex gloss medium and varnish
      (for a VERY light gloss, for the eyes I use Tamiya Color Acrylic Paint/ Clear)

      Water color pencils: Only use water color pencils.

      Dewert Water Color Pencils
      Caran d'Ache Supracolor Soft Aquarelle Pencils (slightly softer but more expensive)

      Pastels:
      Use Chalk or Soft pastels only.

      Rembrandt Soft Pastels
      Unison Handmade Soft Pastels (expensive)

      Brushes:

      Liner (Princeton Mini Brushes Series 3050, Zoukei-mura Face Painting Brushes from Volks are popular liners)
      Filbert or Flat

      Sealents:

      Mr. Super Clear Flat (also available in UV protection)
      Testors Dullcote Clear Flat Spray
      Zoukeimura Finishing Powder (Volks)
       
    3. i have been seeing alot of MSC flaking because of humid weather around....bout WIND too??? i have been sprayin my MSC in cold wind[LOL my hair was atrociously flyin around] but it did not flake 0.0? so...yea...jus wanna ask if anyone has experienced it the same way
       
    4. No no no. It wont flake in wind but I've had a bird feather and my own hair and other unwanted particles appear on Kasper's face. Also if someone wasn't paying attention to the wind direction (unlikely) they might seal their own face. *_*
       
    5. shoot me....but i thought that i did see a point on humid weather and winds like that....might be another thread on my tab. lol. ok.

      i sealed my own fingernails harhar. free topcoat for my nail polish =.=

      i did once in a against wind condition and i sealed my shirt XDXD

      editted: did not want to spam...i have heard that saintograph pastels are not bad and very affordable 8D
       
    6. I heard about saintograph too. But when ever I search for them I cant find any company. They say "gallery Soft Pastels" but the images are so small on the only webpage that sells them. BUT I think I can make out Saintograph

      [​IMG]


      Okay I really think it says saintograph.

      http://www.overjoyed.com.sg/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70_173_176&products_id=271

      They probably sell them in art stores you have to walk into.
       
    7. Problem: face blush/eye makeup looks clownlike

      Solution: Stop blushing BEFORE you think you are done. MSC sometimes darkens the colors. You can always add another layer.
       
    8. Problem: Faceups done inside tend to look really dirty in natural outside light for some reason

      Solution: Paint outside during nice weather, and seal inside to avoid sealing in stray dirt/dust in air.
       
    9. wow!!!
      This is really great, once I´ll start my mnf head soon :)
      But I didn´t understando one thing, Do I have to sand, wash and spray her face before I start her make-up??

      I have Mr. Hobby TopCoat Flat Matt, can I use this spray or will I have to buy Mr. Super Clean??

      Tnx so much for these tips, it was great of you :)
      kss
       
    10. You don't need to sand her! If her head is blank and not sealed yet. Just wipe her off with a damp paper towel (no dye designs) Let her air dry, then coat her. Then you can start her face up.

      I never tried Mr. Hobby TopCoat Flat Matt. Ask around or Test it on her head cap first and see if its okay.
       
    11. One thing I'd suggest is during your blushing phase, compare the head to the body often in natural light. A while back, i failed to do this and when i reattached the head, it looked SUNBURNED compared to the body. I wasted so much time because I had to whipe the entire thing clean and start over. >_<
       
    12. Question: Going back to the whole pastel, when I use pastel to give a sort of blushing around the eyes, while I can keep the pastel relatively even and neat, after I spray, the color looks absolutely grainy >.< The only way I've been able to figure out how to fix this is to apply a ton of layers of it, and while that makes the graininess go away and leave a nice, smooth color, it also makes the color extremely dark which doesn't work on all face-ups. Help! How do I get rid of that graininess with the pastel while not having to go extremely dark? Am I not spraying the MSC correctly?
       
    13. MSC Does darken Pastels. My first face ups, I noticed as well. I had to buy very light shades of pinks and browns. It's good to have a variety of colors! Not just 1 brown, one black, one pink. Personally I buy the color I want, then 2 shades lighter and sometimes a shade darker. (mostly for lips and eyes) and always a stick of white.

      When you're applying the pastels. Coat the face lightly, with MSC. (CAN HAS TO BE VERY WELL SHAKEN) Just enough for the pastel's to stick. Before you do it make sure you are in a well lit room. With natural and indoor lighting. Lay out a piece of card stock and gently scrape off the amount pastel you need onto the paper. Then grind them down into a fine powder with sand paper. This will prevent different amounts of pastel and make it go on smoothly and evenly.

      After you're done. Blow on it. (if there's loose pastel it'll darken and leaves a grainy uneven look) Examine your doll in very good lighting before you coat it. MSC will darken it a bit. So make sure you are at least one tone lighter from the color you want.

      If grinding the pastels into a fine powder doesn't work. It might be the brand of pastel.
       
    14. Thanks NietSage :) I think a get little impatient when I spray my sealer, so I'm going to try a new face-up tomorrow using that method and see if it works out better.

      Also...looking for some tips on eyelashes? I know most people paint them on with acrylics but even with my tiniest brush and the paint thinned down they still come out huge and never wispy. I wonder if...plucking some of the fiber from one of my thinner brushes to make it even more fine tipped would help? ( I do plan on getting a tinier brush in the future but at the moment that's not an option >.< ) Or am I wrong and is watercolor pencil usually the weapon of choice for lashes?
       
    15. Which brush are you using now? I heard of people thinning down their brushes. It's possible but, a bit difficult. Some people trim it.

      Personally I prefer acrylic paints than water color pencils. But water color pencils can be just as good as acrylics! They have more control and you can just erase them if you make a mistake.

      As for tips. Practice your brush strokes. :) On a head cap or a piece of paper. To get wispy and thin. You need to know how much pressure and paint you need. You barely need pressure. (I cant feel the brush on the doll at all sometimes.) And not that much paint. (I have to constantly add a bit of paint to my brush when I'm doing lower lashes and eyebrows.) Doing it carefully and slowly is very important! Take your time. Plan all of your strokes.
       
    16. When spraying MSC inside, do it in a bathroom that isn't used very much that has a fan. Close the door while you are spraying, and when you are done LEAVE the fan on and close the door firmly. Leave it on for a couple of hours.

      This is what I do because I have sensitive little fuzzy noses around my house. Also, spraying in a small contained room helps you not to overspray because you get lightheaded when you've done too much :P
       
    17. I have a problem. ahaha.

      I want to use mica powder in the gloss but not the paint it's self. But when ever I try it. it's like the gloss over powers the mica powder. I want it took look more shimmery then shiny! Would it look better if I mixed mica with a matte varnish and a little bit of gloss?
       
    18. if you want a shimmery look, i'd try applying the powder and spraying a few layers of MSC first so it's got a thick coat over it. then apply a some gloss varnish that has been thinned out with acrylic thinning medium so it's not so strong. apply a thin-thin layer. i've had the same problem and what i've found is that often i didn't build up enough MSC over the powder and the gloss made it "wet" and screwed with the shimmer. >_<
       
    19. Niet... your ... I have no words that can describe the gratitude I have for all the tutorials you have given us.

      A simple Thank you is all I can say.
       
    20. don't forget that if you want to thin a brush down trim some hairs at the ferrule (the metal part that holds them). Never pull them out as this will make the remaining ones loose and they'll fall out too.
       
    21. the thing about natural light...i dont recommend it because I found natural light to be very inconsistent. 10AM sunlight looks different at 3PM and 10Am the following day doesn't look like it did the day before. XD; (atleast, where I live) I recommend using bright indoor lighting to do faceups because then you can maintain color consistency when blushing, mixing and layering.

      My problem with faceups is that my dolls end up having shiny skin after their first faceup has been removed. (is it because I'm using Magic Eraser to remove previous faceups?). And it's still shiny after I coat it with MSC. Is there any way to make the shiny skin look matte?
       
    22. I have a question about mixing pastels. I read in one of your past face up tutorials that you mixed blue into your base color... sometimes when I do that to get the same effect it's like it doesn't mix well... is there a tip anyone can give on mixing pastel colors together?
       
    23. Fayre, I usually have to just keep mixing and mixing and mixing until it looks blended enough. I've never really come across anything that made it blend easier/faster. I just use a Q-tip and do it that way. XD haha
      I have a question too though..I want to find a wayyyyy teeny tiny brush (for lashes and eyebrow hairs), and Michaels doesn't have any. I'm gonna check the local art store but if it doesn't have it, does anyone have any idea where I could get a brush that's decently priced? I really don't have the means to be buying an 8 dollar brush. X_x; lol
       
    24. That's odd. Most resin does look shiny bare, without any sealent. I don't think it's the magic eraser. Have you sanded the doll's face before? Sometimes if you use too much of a fine sandpaper it'll "polish" the resin. The MSC should make the face look completely matte.

      It could just be the kind of resin or It could be how you coat the head. I always coat the head with 1 to 2 light coats before I start. Then two very like coats after. Try adding an extra light coat after you're done. If that doesn't work you might just have a shiny doll. :sweat
       
    25. Mixing anything is a huge pain in the neck. Pastels are probably the worse. You really have to get it into a fine powder to get an even color. That's why pastel powder is so expensive, but it works like a charm when mixing. Takes a lot of patience and you won't get it right the first time.

      That's why I'll grind them with sandpaper and start to add different colors. then grind them all together, then lightly drag a bit across the paper, to feel the texture and to see if its an even color.

      It might even be the brand of pastels you're using. The less quality they are the more you'll have to work on getting an even color.

      I use sandpaper because it gives me a larger amount of pastels and it's more powdery then "chunky".
       
    26. Sadly most really thin brushes cost from 4$ dollars each to even 12$.
      The Princeton mini brushes are pretty popular if you don't want to go over 5$. http://www.dickblick.com/zz056/54/ They aren't as small as the volks Zoukei-mura brushes. But with a little practice you can master them.

      Another option is to buy the thinnest brush in an art store and trim off the hairs with small cosmetic scissors. You risk messing the brush up permanently, weakening the bristles and it may not even hold paint right. I heard of people actually achieving this though. Not really sure how to do it. You can search the web.

      Like Kez said, it's probably best to trim from the ferrule. I also think a round brush would be the best to modify.
       
    27. I actually had a thought last night..I was looking on ebay for thin brushes and a bunch of auctions for those nail-painting brushes came up. The ones that the people in nail salons use to paint the little teeny tiny designs on your fingernails? They're really thin and look like they'd work. Does anyone know if they'd be alright? o.o

      And I actually looked at those, Niet. I would be willing to pay that. I'd really be too worried to just trim a brush. X_x;; lol
       
    28. They should be alright.
       
    29. I've been having an issue where I try to thin my acrylics (I am using liquitex soft body acrylics the kinds that come in little paint pots) using a fluid retarder that is intended for airbrushing. On paper the thinned paints work fine but on a doll the lines are translucent and they dont layer well unless I wait for them to completely dry in between every overlapping line, it is also near impossible to get a smooth looking line with these acrylics for eyeliner because they are so translucent and watery.

      I have tried using it at a one to one ratio, and even less and it either does almost nothing or it becomes translucent.

      I've taken to using watercolor pencils and they work fine, but eventually I'd like to learn to use acrylics. Is there something else I should use for thinner? I can't find normal fluid thinner for liquitex, only the airbrush sort.
       
    30. Sounds like you're using way too much thinner, but you stated you tried different ratios. I'm not sure if the paint in the pots are bad quality or the airbrushing retarder is the problem. Most likely to be the airbrushing retarder.
      Most acrylic thinner's work fine. It doesn't really need to be liquitex brand. you could go back to the art store and pick up another brand. I'm not sure what's the difference from airbrushing thinner and acrylic thinner. I guess it makes the paint lighter? I have no idea. :sweat

      The one below works fine. You can buy it on and offline. Dickblick.com is my favorite website.
      [​IMG]

      Another thing is that when I'm doing fine lines/hairs, I have about 3 separate colors (same color originally) with, retarder, a little retarder and no retarder. Sometimes you have to go back and add a bit more contrast to some hairs and reduce others for a natural look. If the paint gets too thin or watery with the retarder I'll use a matte medium instead or add it to the thinned acrylics.
       
    31. The airbrush stuff is the only flow aid my art store carries >.<
      It's liquitex soft body, as far as I know all liquitex paints are good quality? If I use significantly more paint than thinner it stays opaque.. But its still goopy. I heard you were supposed to thin it to an ink consistancy which is way too thin when I try it. Also no, I have like three other brand thinners, only the liquitex works with the liquitex paint- the others just make the paint bobble around in little paint-orbs.

      I dunno why liquitex does that- It does with water too. I suppose because it isnt a water based acrylic?

      Edit:
      I've gotten much better at using watercolor pencil for fine lines now, so I guess I dont NEED to learn to use the acrylic. But I'm having an issue now where my pastel builds up and looks grainy- it doesnt at first, but if I layer it on just a bit too much it gets grainy. I think it'd be softened by another coat of sealer ( I'll see pretty soon ) since it's not horribly obvious, but I'm not using extremely cheap pastels- they arent the best brand but I know others have used them and they cost a pretty penny as far as I'm concerned.
      Is there any way to solve that? I've been brushing the pastel directly off of the pastel sticks to get a lighter amount, but when I used to shave them off it didnt happen- is it that important to shave them off?
       
    32. Hmm, I've had the same problem, KakuraChan. I do shave them off, but I don't have the sand paper yet to grind them down. I would start, and it wouldn't look grainy, but the more I built it up the grainier it seemed to get. I've only done one faceup though, and I didn't have sandpaper to grind the pastel down further. I thought maybe it was because there werer some inconsistent grains, but if you took it right from the pastel itself, I'm not sure. My pastels are pretty damn cheap though, I couldn't even brush colour off of the sticks lol.

      A general question: (nevermind, I think I found my answer in another topic! :))
       
    33. If you're still looking for small brushes, find a store that sells D&D miniatures or model trains. I have 5/0 and 10/0 brushes for painting 35mm figures (in detail, eyes, etc) that I also use on HO (1/87) scale figures.
       
    34. I read on another forum that dipping your can of MSC in warm water right before spraying results in a thinner, more even coating. I just thought that would be worth mentioning here.
       
    35. I am trying to put all of these ideas together.. I am getting a blank head, and would like to do my own face up. ..Question.. Is the sealer for going on before AND
       
    36. I seal before and after and in between. Like this: sealer,sealer, pastels, sealer, pastels, sealer, acrylics, sealer, sealer. Whew!
       
    37. Hm, I've had this happen to me a few times... D: I really hate it when it happens. But, is there any way to fix chipped MSC? Like when I'm ALMOST finished with a face-up, someway or somehow...a piece of MSC chips. T_T;;
       
    38. ..........
       
    39. :fangirl:Thank you especially for the eyebrows tips and suggestions...they are impossible to do it for meeeee
      I have Zoukeimura brush, extra thin brush, 0/10 brush.... a huge collection but no use for me....
      I'm feeling more and more depressing ,:...(and frustrated, but as you've said before, practice can make me better...I HOPE!!!
       
    40. Problem: MSC is TOO rough. Paint lines and pastels are too grainy.

      Solution: Make sure you are sealing evenly and not too light when you're applying pastels or painting. When you seal the head should look wet. not soaking or slightly "damp" If you look carefully you shouldn't see wet and dry spots. "Scaley". It should be a even smooth coat.
       
    41. Problem: How do I clean up mistakes I made with my thinned acrylic paint?
       
    42. If it's still wet. You can try rubbing it off with a damp cotton ball. q-tip/paper towel


      If it's dry. I use a dry magic cleaner eraser. scrub it with a good amount of pressure. Make sure its not wet at all.
       
    43. These tips are so superduper helpful! :'D
      Just one question, though. I live in Florida (lol at your sig) and i'm sure you know how terribly humid it is ;^; However, I don't have an empty space to spray in. Could I spray outside and quickly transport the head inside? Would this most likely cause flaking because of quick change in temperature?
       
    44. Lol. I've done that before, with some good results

      The problem is the doll head is likely to be room temperature, and once you bring it out to the outside it'll likely to "sweat" if its a very humid day. And the MSC isn't going to stick to a damp head.

      I think if you wait for a not so cloudy or rainy day around the afternoon when everything starts to get dry, and seal quickly enough, before the head starts to "sweat", maybe outside of a window or door way (You're a/c will be pushing out so you have a some length of cold dry air) and then bringing the head right back in to dry.

      Good luck.
       
    45. Ohh, I see :)
      thanks so much for the help!
       
    46. I like a lot of your points, but I have a problem with one - don't blow on pastels - if even a tiny drop of saliva spits out onto the faceup it will smear the pastels. I've had it happen way too many times. :sweat Also, sometimes you can blow the pastels into other areas that you don't want them and you may not notice. I use a dry big fluffy brush (such as a watercolor mop) to brush the pastels away. It doesn't take any pressure, and sometimes swishing it just above the surface can create a wind to pull the pastel away. Or if you must blow, use canned air (like the kind for dusting computers) at a distance in small bursts.

      I also recommend washing and drying hands before, and during any pastel work. Especially after directly handling a pastel. It is too easy to get some on our skin and not notice, then later leaving smudges and fingerprints. Some artists will wear gloves while handling heads during faceups, if they handle pastels while wearing the gloves it becomes necessary to change the gloves.

      Panpastels and Schminke pastels are extremely soft and do not need grinding. They can be lifted directly out of the pan or off the stick (depending on which you are using) with a soft brush. Mixing color with these is as simple as very gently stroking one and then the other with the brush to lift the color.

      Sometimes white patches on a dolls head are caused when alcohol does not fully remove the MSC. Scrubbing with a magic eraser and Windsor & Newton removes it best I have found. Also, if a head feels tacky after it has been washed it still has MSC residue and should be cleaned with brush cleaner again.
       
    47. I just want to say I also use the Schminke pastels and they don't require any grinding, but it is important to blow away the heavier particles away. I think that "dirty" look you'll get in your blushing is caused by MSC "melting" larger particles that you can't see otherwise, and making things look blotchy and dirty. so "blowing" or using an air can (very lightly and not too close, you do need some material on the brush) is still very important.

      Also, when blushing, do it in layers. Do it in many light layers and build on what you're doing slowly. Have patience. This will reduce any blotchy spots, heavier in one location than another (unlike the previous blotchy spots that just look dirty) this can also prevent the MSC from melting larger particles and causing that dirty effect.

      For eyebrows, study the way they grow, find photos of models online, then practice with paper and pencil to draw out those hairs and practice. The direction of the strokes are from where they grow out of the skin (start of stroke) to their length. This gives the stroke a natural thicker base to thinner tip as a real hair is. I hate saying this because I&#8217;m still in the process of getting it to where I like my own brows and lashes. Sometimes I&#8217;m pleased and sometimes I just can&#8217;t get it for the life of me, but doing these things has increased my rate of success, LOL. Go SLOWLY and PURPOSELY (man I find that hard) When I manage to slow myself down and get my concentration zoned in, I can do great things. Problem is getting there, LOL. I think investing the time to practice is invaluable! I&#8217;m about to have to do it again after a long hiatus and will have to practice everything again! Good luck everyone (including me, LOL)
       
    48. I have a question.. how to use thinner? I have Mr Thinner, and I've tried mixing just a little and a lot but I can't get it right.

      Also, I've heard people paint with normal water colors, and I wanted to try it but wont it smudge when coating?
       
    49. I have a question or two~

      I have no clue why but my pastels have been coming off very...splotchy for lack of a better word. I blend and apply thinly but after the MSC goes on it goes darker in some parts or lighter in others leaving a 'dabbed it on with a sponge look'. I don't think I'm spraying too unevenly as eyes and lips come out fine. it's mostly around the neck hole and where the headcap would go.

      Secondly how should I best go with painting eyelid creases? A lot of tutorials brush over this with a 'paint the eyelid crease' but I'm never sure how it goes. Should this be done with darker pastels? Just a random line in a darker colour? Is it a mandatory faceup technique? Would water colour pencil/paint do the job just as well?
       
    50. Lady sleepsalot: What kind of paints are you using? Could be the combination of the two, try using another thinner.

      I never used water colors before.

      Diamondust: That's odd. You could be spraying those areas unevenly. Try different coating techniques. How do you coat the head? In your hand or set on something?

      I personally don't add a painted crease. Just a darker pastel. If you want to do a line, you can use a pencil or paint. It's not mandatory x) Which ever you think looks the best.

      If you want to paint it on. I advise using the same brush you would use for eyelashes/eyebrows and use a very thinned dark color, and just make a line that contours with the molded crease.

      Wish pastels you can use 2-3 shades darker than the blushing or eyeshadow and use a thin stiff brush, brushing the pastels along the eyecrease till you like how it looks.
       
    51. I'm using Tamiya acrylics. I also have a retarder but I'm too scared to use it since it contains alcohol, the brand on that one is Amsterdam
       
    52. Super helpful thread for a beginner. Most of my questions were answeared (and some of the prayers, too!). Thanks everyone. I guess I'll just keep trying.
       
    53. I went shopping for supplies and such, and was going to get some Liquitex acrylics but they were like 10+ a tube and my mom wasn't for it so i had to pick some different ones and they were out of Rembrant pastels which weren't that bad in price and will probably buy later on. I would like to know if anyone has use what i have and is it resin safe, because Ive been hearing about how some Acrylics aren't safe for them :(

      Reeves- Acrylic color set (paint)
      Soft pastels
      Liquitex flow aid
      and
      Testors all purpose Dullcote 1260 flat clear lacquer

      and a picture of what i bought.

      [​IMG]
       
    54. I am just going to try to do the face up myself and i just need to know what the name of the coating I use to seal the face first then after ? Does Michael's have this coating or only volks ?
       
    55. Hope it's okay to bump this xD;;
      but I'm also wondering the same thing as Atarashii; I recently bought some Reeves brand Acrylics because I also didn't realize how expensive Liquitex is XD;
       
    56. Hi. I'm new to faceups. I just got two Migidoll Ryu heads, and they were blank. So I thought my mom and I could attempt to practice, and try our own faceups. I bought these chalk pastels from LeekeWorld: http://www.leekeworld.com/En/Product/p_view.asp?it_code=1323&B_catalog_num=26 , but the problem we were having is that the powder of the chalk just wasn't going on the way we thought. It just went on very light. Now I know its a powder, but it just wasn't going on as thick as we wanted, or at least as how we expected. Even darker colors like brown and black just didn't seem to be as dark as they should have been. Is there a way to get the chalk to lay on better? Is there a better product to use? Am I just expecting too much out of the chalk?

      I have acyclic paints as well and the tools to do air brushing, but I was rather hoping to do pastels as I thought they would be easier.
       
    57. Atarashii: I have the same pastels as you and I use those particular ones wet. I have found that higher quality pastels are better used dry for blushing and shading, but those are excellent to use with a very fine wet brush straight from the body.
      Shinigami: As I just said, you will get more colour intensity if you wet your pastels,( harder types are better for this I have found). If they are too intense for you when dry, you can rub a cotton bud over them to mute the tones a bit too. Other than that you just have to build the colour up gradually....
      Also a good tip for even eyebrows is to keep looking in a mirror. It helps to see if they are straight.
       
    58. Replying to this here. I used those same acrylics when i first started doing faceups, as well as the base makeup pastels from volks. I found those pastels are not very vivid and it takes several layers or alot of pastel to get just a normal depth of color. They are great for practice and beginners but ive since moved on :} the black and darker colors work alright though just make sure to grind them in to a soft powder as they are a little chalky and break up too easily sometimes.
       
    59. This is a great thread for someone who is new like me. Thanks alot for posting it.
       
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