Originally published in Hobby Japan 9 (September 2007) Translated by DOA user CHISA.TO, DOA user AENEAS and Motohashi Reiji. 1. The materials needed for this faceup: tortillions (rolled paper stump used to shade pencil/charcoal) a slender brush an exacto knife or retractable cutter a gundam marker "fine type" in black a sharp 2B pencil regular or mechanical (everyday school pencil will work, artist grade is better) a clean (preferably new) kneaded rubber eraser clear matte sealer (Mr Super Clear or close equivalent) airbrush * acrylic paints (brown, red, white, pearl white) gloss polish medium (either liquitex or tamiya gloss) * Pastels can be used if you don't own or know how to use an airbrush. However you will have to find another tutorial for that. 2.Before we do any makeup, let put some sort of sealer to make it easier to paint smoothly. 3.Put eyeliner on upper eyelashes using black gundam marker , erase overly put area using exacto knife . (Gundam markers have their own remover which are also in marker format, but it might eat through the base coat of sealer. Also, gundam markers come in many different colors, however beware of the metaillic colors for they are enamel based.) 4.Draw lower eyelashes, eyebrows, and dented area on eyelid by using sharp 2B pencil (regular everyday school pencils can be used but you can also buy artist quality 2B pencils at most art stores), Sharpen the point of the pencil using an exacto knife or a retractable knife. 5.Trace on eyebrows using tortillons and make it blur. If you don't have a tortillion , coil some paper to a point like a pen, and use it like tortillion . 6.If you fail on making it look even, you can use a kneaded rubber eraser to erase it Knead the rubber eraser to a sharpened point and tap and erase where you failed. Too much rubbing make it dirty so careful. The results of the 2B pencil and shading with the tortillion. 7.You can use an exacto knife to make good looking effects by cutting slightly on eye brose and eyeliner area. Be gentle so you won't cut into the sealer. 8.Airbrush on eyebrows carefully, If you use brown color, that gives casual look. If you use black color, it gives exotic look. 9.Airbrushing around eye origin and lower eyelid pink or salmon-pink make the face lively. This color is made of mixture of white and red, and a little bit of brown. Also, use your pencil to make a small dent softly on the both sides of lips (right and left). If you do that, it will make the face more 3D. Don't forget to sharpen your pencil to a sharp point. (continued in next post)
(continued from first post) 11. For lips, airbrush pink color softly without masking around lips, in this way color stays pallid and looks natural. 12. Airbrush a series of pink or brown for eye shadow area, and once again airbrush clear matte sealer on the surface like pictures shown above. It is like sandwiching the paint with sealer . 13.As for finishing lips, paint the mixture of pearl white and gloss medium on lips. When you paint the lips, mix pink and clear color paint a little bit for your preference. This makes outline of lips look more naturally. Paint clear white color on teeth part, red color on tongue part, then glue it from behind the face part. Makeup is finished. Paining gloss around eyes is also effective to looking making the makeup look realistic. You can change things freely and be creative with it. If you have any questions or if any of the English is confusing or unnatural please comment. The off-doa mirror link for this tutorial is here so if the images don't show here then please try there before telling me the images don't work!
I may be a bit naive asking this but what is a Gundam marker? I've seen them for sale on various hobby sites but I assumed that they would be bad to use. Does anyone know what they are made of?
Gundam marker is a marker used to fill in the lines of gundam to make them look more realistic. Gundam marker in metalic colors are enamel and solid fine type are acrylic. You can remove it same way to remove a regular faceup , or if you make a mistake remove it with gundam marker remover (that itself is a marker).
so useful thanks a lot!! though i wonder..when you use that exacto knife thingy..wont the resin get scratched or something?
You'd be barely applying any pressure, a small scrape, enough to get through the top layer and not much else. You're not "cutting" into the doll, just barely gliding the blade on top of the surface. Does that help?
Thank you so much for posting this The aparatus of this tutorial is quite handy and amazing!!. But do you have any idea what the matte sealent is in question? Aside from the obvious MSC which is in pressured spray cans. Is it possible to purchase MSC by the bottle instead of cans? It's just so much more economical.
Its either Mr Super Clear, Mr. Color sealer or Mr Top Coat. They don't sell them buy the bottle since it needs to be sprayed on to be even, and its faster for the original intention of both products, to protect paint coming off of figure kits, which is also why the cans are so small. The cans are also meant to be the size of your hand, to hold easier which is why there is no bigger size. The tutorial didn't say which matte sealant he used, mostly because each has its pros and cons and its really up to you which one you use. There is a bit of tips/tricks for use of all there on my website here. The english translation/explanation is on the bottom of the page under the images, but the images with the spraying examples for each kind have english text added so you know what is what.
are you 100%positive that those gundam markers are safe for all resin? because it looks too good to be true
gundam markers have acrylic paint in them, the metailic colors ones have enamel paint on them, both are safe to use on resin (although its a lot tougher to get the metaillic ones off and you have less margin of error). yes I'm 100% positive that they are safe for resin. also getarou araki has been working with resin longer than most of us have been into ball jointed dolls (actually longer than volks has even been making them) so you can trust his tutorials and take his word for it if you're not going to take mine.
IT IS NOT SAFE FOR RESIN ! i have tryed before... ! i have coated but when i have delete, but there still trace on resin ! i have sand a little !
i use real touch marker, i don't know the metalic ! Megu chan have try too , and she have the same problem...
real touch marker and gundam markers aren't the same as far as I know. if you want to try either I'd suggest having the doll coated once or twice before the application. also remember that even in high quality artist acrylics there is a possibility of staining, this is not because of the paint but because of the pigments in the paint that make the color. cheap acrylic paints use hues to make the colors instead of pigment.
real touch marker is a gundam marker... i have coated a lot before... and that stain ! there are a lot of kind gundam marker, perhaps i haven't got try the one who stain
In fact, i had trouble with it too, i had to removed all the make-up. Araki is really usefull, he can use the markers very well and if he mistakes he just change little le make-up. But for no professionnal like us, i don't think it's a good idea. There are a lot of alcohol markets like pilot / uniball ,neo-piko pigment markers make try on head cap before . But if you miss, you can't do anything to save your make-up after. Me i wanted to use them, because i use them to drawing, the worst idea ever, i cried,
I wonder why to use something as messy as Gundam Markers, sure it's a nice black and hold better then acrylics if you glue eyelashes, but it's something I'll never use on a doll, I'll brush on some Mr.color gloss black mixed with mr. retarder mild instead.
using brushes and using markers are the same, in the sense that you will need some skill to do either the way you want.
This was so helpful! I always wondered how the experts got that eyeliner so perfect! I just purchased two gundam markers - I can't wait to try them. Anyone else use them yet? EDIT: Oh boy, it seems I'm in for a real treat...seeing the responses of so many about the markers. Either way, I trust Araki and have a head for experimenting on first. I'm sure everything will work out a-okay.
I certainly will! I just placed the order this morning and they've already been shipped! They'll arrive weeks before my MSC lol.
The Real Touch Gundam markers are for temporary weathering effects on Gundams. I'm thinking it's not quite the same thing. I'd also reccommend Windsor & Newton brush cleaner to clean them off. That stuff rocks!
For anyone still skeptical, if you have any doubts about them then use your own personal judgment and decide if you want to use them or not. But Araki-sensei would definitely know better than any of us would.
Ladyrixx is correct, Gundam touch markers are meant to be used on a glossy surface then shaded with Gundam real touch Shading Pen, It's not the same thing. GM01-Fine black is the type of Gundam Marker used in the tutorial, It is an acrylic paint marker.
so basically you use the fine point markers like they say not the other ones.. that makes sense, that also means that those who used any marker other than the fine point one made a mistake which could have ruined their doll... simple as that.. people were not paying attention to details.
Basically fine point and normal Gundam markers have almost the same size tip, but you can't use the normal one, cause you can paint only with the end of the tip (as at the side its just plastic like a pen), fine gundam makers tips are like brushes and you can also use the side of it to paint like in Gentaro tutorial. Still I think my 1 size brush is better but as a modeler I known Japanese people can do amazing things with crazy technics.
aye whatever floats your boat, im sticking to my paintbrush too.... im a wuss to try new things when it comes to these dolls
I use the pink Gundam pen for nails mainly, I have had no problems removing it... (yes, I have taken it off hands of dolls many times no stain) http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM410 <- this one
That makes it look so easy... If I can't get my next faceup right that's my plan B. There is still hope for me! I also find it hard to believe that Araki above all people wouldn't know what he was doing... Thanks for the tutorial!
Heya! Thank you lots, CHISA.TO for posting these up! :3 I was wondering if there's any difference between the Gundam markers with black pen body and red logo and the blue pen body with orange logo? I just bought one that has a blue pen body with orange logo. It's the GM01 fine type and the hobby store guy was saying how I can just use it on resin and erase away with soft eraser (if it is immediate). However, I saw that there's a Japanese wording that says it's oil-based. D: Didn't people say we can't use oil-based materials for faceups? But if the seller mentions it's easily removable (with thinner so I don't have to purchase the gundam marker eraser), it should be safe... Lol. x_X; Sorry for muttering to myself here. I just haven't gotten the courage up yet to test it on my doll's head cap. Lol.
It is hard to say, with confidence because the research I can do online is inconclusive. I only know of a difference between "real touch" and black label. Some Gundam markers come in sets to match an anime series, these markers have different body colors. Hmm...Saying it can be removed with thiner doesn't tell what type of paint it is even some types of acrylic need thinner to be removed. Usually in Gundam detailing there is 3 types of paints used acrylic, enamel, and lacquer. Enamel can come in oil but there are also acrylic and latex types of enamel. You can tell the type of paint by: ACRYLIC - Cleans up with water (Usually). Minimal odor. Cannot be used together with lacquers. Dries very slowly when brush applied, especially glossy colors. Brands: Tamiya Color Acrylic, GSI-Creos "Aqueous Hobby Color" ENAMEL - Adheres well to plastic. Will not dissolve other paints. Thin applications can be removed after drying with thinner. Some odor. Dries slowly, especially in humid climates. Brands: Tamiya Color Enamel, Testors LACQUER -Adheres very well to plastic making it easy to brush paint. Dries very, very quickly (1-3 minutes when airbrushed). Strong odor. Fumes dangerous if inhaled for long periods. Cannot be applied over other paint types. Brands: GSI-Creos "Mr. Color" Gunze-Sangyo is now GSI-Creos along with the whole "Mr. Hobby" line of products. And while im slightly on the subject of Mr Hobby Products. Mr. Super Clear is a Lacquer/solvent based sealer and Mr. Top Coat is a aqueous water based sealer. But anyway testing it may be the only way to see if its safe to use.
Ah, thanks for the explanation, AENEAS! :3 I finally got around to trying my pen and it does get fainter when I use a soft erase to rub the marker line. Thinner DOES remove it. :3
It's an interesting tutorial, thanks for that, but it lacks of photos. To use gundam marker is a good idea but I have not never seen it on sale in Moscow. What marker can replace gundam marker? Who uses what markers except gundam?